Today’s post is going be mostly about food and heat, because we spent all of today riding in the middle of fucking nowhere in heat that cooks eggs on sidewalks.
Since yesterday’s ride was a little longer than usual we slept in a bit this morning (7:30AM) and got on the road by 9. It was already very warm, a good sign that temps were going to be scorching today. Pecos in the daylight is nothing to behold. In fact when we got in at dusk yesterday I had no concept how big the town was. Well, once we pulled out of the lot this morning we were basically on the highway and on our way to the first stop on our route, Fort Stockton.
Fort Stockton had two things happening that made it cool as far as we’re concerned. First, that the town was getting ready for the Big Bend Open Road Race. Which really means dudes who have money to spend from all over the world, gather to race their cars at speeds upwards of 200mph on Hwy 285. Sadly no pics to show we saw anything to do with it, but trust me the cars we saw were impressive. Especially seeing them come at you when you’ve been counting the number of colours you’ve seen across the desert.
Second, were the breakfast burritos we feasted on at The Burrito Inn owned an operated by Betty and Oscar. The food was simple, homemade and sooooo damned good. They filled our tummies for the presumed long-ass-vacant-road ahead. Rick got to chatting with these two and they had both a look of concern and excitement as we described where we’re from and where we’re going.
Blah blah blah… windy, long, highway… nothingness… with one interesting change in scenery, the appearance of border patrol. This highway skirted along the Rio Grande, which in these parts is the border, and from all appearances it seems as though it was being very well protected. We crossed through a random check point with a giant dog and tons of border type tech you’d expect to see at the entire Peace Arch crossing back home. Nope, no Mexicans hiding in our saddle bags, so we got waved right through.
It’s such a mixed bag of people who fear Mexico and others who envy our trip. We actually came across a lot of motorbike riders today on this route and had a chance to chat at fuel stops about different routes people were taking. The vast majority were excited about the thought of riding in Mexico, while we got a few who felt it was too dangerous with regards to cartel violence. So interesting how even right on the frontier, mainstream media holds its grip.
Along the way there were plenty of mini breaks to rest our butts, get fluids in us and stay sane ’till we reached our destination. We were aiming to get to Eagle Pass, but around 5pm another 70miles seemed like a horrible idea. We took what would be our last rest stop at an outpost petrol station, discussing what we would do when we arrived. I opted for an ice cold beer, Rick exclaimed, “at this point, I’d drink God’s piss.” It was decided then. Del Rio, the little oasis in the desert nothingness, and border.
Del Rio is a military training town, as well as people who enjoy boating and fishing at the Amistad Recreational Area. But more importantly less than a block from our motel is the Seventh Street Cantina or colloquially known as the country dive bar. Bring on the Miller High Life! In the other direction is taco paradise: Chinto’s. Fish taco platter for me and variety-of-the-meats taco plate for Rick. We are stuffed, we’ve had beer. Life is good.
So folks, tomorrow we embark on the next leg of this adventure and cross into Mexico. Our first destination is Santiago, which is just outside of Monterrey. We expect a pretty mellow border in the early hours and then from there it’s – who knows! I think wireless will be plenty so stay tuned for Day 1 of MX tomorrow.Besos
Sarah y Ricardo